It’s over four months now since my knee replacement, even though I’m still a bit ‘bokety’, I’m infinitely more mobile than previously so I’m up for little adventures.
Recently, I flew to London to attend ‘A Last Supper’ gathering to remember Skye Gyngell, a dearly loved cook and friend who sadly passed away at just 62 years of age. She visited and taught at the Ballymaloe cookery school several times and was such a joy and inspiration to all of us.
As ever I took the opportunity to catch up on excitements on the London food scene.
There have been many high profile launches in recent months despite the deeply challenging trading climate and the many closures, mainly due to costs rising exponentially in every area.
The Hart, a relatively recent opening on the increasingly exciting London Gastropub scene, is still one of London’s most sought after bookings. Think, the Fat Badger, The Devonshire, The Pelican – lively cool crowds were happily queuing around the corner, the vibe inside is less ‘rowdy boozer’, more ‘vibey date spot.’ Super cool interiors with wood panelling, cosy snugs and niches, some original stained glass panels and flickering oil lamps. The restaurant, several flights above the busy bar, is a quieter, more relaxed, elegant space, more flickering candles…The menu is deceptively simple, but every bite had an extra, je ne sais quoi. Simple sounding crab cakes were crisp and packed with flavour, as was the pig’s head with a sauce Gribiche and a chunky chicken and dumpling soup. How about that for comforting food on a winter’s evening? My grandson said his steak and smashed potatoes infused with garlic and rosemary was the very best he’d ever eaten.
Don’t miss the mince roll, sounds dull and boring, definitely is not. I hate banoffee pie with a passion, but everyone seemed to be raving about it, so my grandson ordered one as well as a huge choux bun oozing with chocolate mousse, whipped cream and crunchy praline with a wafer of craquelin on top. Both were luscious and irresistible, not surprised that the aforementioned Banoffee Pie is referred to as their standout dessert.
On the way to the new Padella in Shoreditch, we passed Legado, Nieves Barragan Mohacho’s new restaurant so I decided to change my plan and have lunch there, much as I love Padella. It’s regional, ‘nose to tail’ eating from all four corners of Spain and an exceptional wine and sherry menu, possibly the best fino sherry I’ve ever drunk. Quo Vadis on Dean Street in Soho – hardly new but my favourite go to when I arrive in London on a latish flight. Love Jeremy Lee’s comforting seasonal food.  We enjoyed the smoked eel and horseradish sandwich, baked salsify with a dusting of Parmesan, roast partridge with cabbage and one of these gooey desserts with both custard and softly whipped cream – divine! Another great find was a little hidden spot under the railway arches, on Mentmore Terrace not far from the brilliant Saturday Broadway market in Hackney, it’s called Pockets and serves just one good thing, the most delicious and outstanding Falafel I’ve ever tasted anywhere in the world. A fluffy pita pocket stuffed full to bursting with freshly fried falafel, tahini, red cabbage slaw, pickled onion, sumac, tomato, cucumber, hummus, red zhug, amba, and a crispy wafer of something delicious plus a killer chilli…A messy irresistible feast in a pocket.

Potato and Chorizo Stew

Nieves Barragán Mohacho is the Executive Chef at Sabor located on Heddon Street and has a cookbook by the same name published by Fig Tree.

This stew from Rioja is simple but you do need to cut the potatoes correctly to ensure that their starch thickens the liquid. Everyone loves this – it’s a very weekend-y, comforting dish. You can’t get it wrong. In Spain, every Mamá makes this.

Serves 4

Ingredients
4 large potatoes 
240g mild or spicy cooking chorizo
25ml extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
1 large Spanish onion, julienned
2 bay leaves
100ml dry white wine
1 litre chicken stock, or water, or a 50/50 mixture of both
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

Method

Peel the potatoes. Partially cut into them, then pull them apart into chunky, uneven-edged pieces around 3cm in size. Cut the chorizo to half the size of the potatoes.

Put the olive oil into a big pan on a medium heat, then add the onion and cook gently for about 15 minutes, without colouring. Add the chorizo and when it starts to caramelise lightly (careful, it burns easily). Add the potatoes, bay leaves and wine. Cook until the wine has evaporated, then add the chicken stock and/or water and season.

Half cover the pan with a lid and continue cooking on a low-medium heat. The more slowly you cook it, the more starch will come out of the potatoes – it should take about 25 minutes. When the potatoes are cooked through, add the parsley.

Serve with a drizzle of olive oil to finish and bread to dip.

Snow White Apple Ice Cream from Spring in London

They use Snow White organic apples from Fern Verrow, a biodynamic Farm in Herefordshire in the UK.

Makes 1500ml ice cream

Serves 4-6 approx.

Ingredients

340ml double cream

265ml whole milk

½ tsp flaky sea salt

90g caster sugar

90g egg yolks

800g freshly squeezed apple juice

lemon juice

Method

To make the ice cream base, have ready a fine mesh sieve set over a heat-proof container.
Add the cream, milk, salt and sugar to a heavy-bottomed saucepan.

In a large and wide bowl, whisk the egg yolks until lightened in colour. Temper the egg yolks with the hot cream, whisking constantly, then pour the mixture back in the saucepan. Place the custard back on a low heat and cook, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pot, until the custard reaches a temperature of 76C. Immediately pass the custard through the sieve and into the container. Place the container over a bowl of ice water and stir until cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight.

The following day, add the apple juice to the custard and taste for seasoning. Season with more sugar lightly and a generous squeeze of lemon. Churn in an ice cream maker as per the manufacturer’s instructions, then transfer to the freezer for at least 2 hours before serving.

Serve a scoop of apple ice cream in a chilled bowl.

Sue Cullinane’s Banoffee Pie

Don’t know the secret of The Hart Banoffee Pie but this too is delicious, thank you Sue for sharing.

Ingredients

2 tins dulche de leche (caramel sauce)

75g butter

large packet of digestive biscuits, approx. 225g

6-8 bananas

freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon

425ml cream

3 tbsp Irel Coffee essence or Tia Maria

To Garnish

grated chocolate or toasted flaked almonds

30.5cm cheesecake tin

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan over a gentle heat. Crush the biscuits and add to the butter. Line the lightly oiled tin with this mixture and leave to set.

Open the tins and spread the dulche de leche over the biscuit base. Slice the bananas, toss in freshly squeezed lemon juice and arrange on top of the toffee.

Whip the cream, add the coffee essence or Tia Maria. Pipe over the bananas. Cover lightly and put it into the fridge to set.

Serve sprinkled with chocolate swirls or toasted almonds.

Note

The banoffee pie may be prepared a day ahead.

Time was, when apart from a couple of Chinese and Indian restaurants there was little Asian food to be had in Ireland, how things have changed.
As we travel more and more and become increasingly adventurous, our national craving for Asian flavours has escalated and the options continue to grow.
 The Asian Restaurant Awards created in 2023 has helped to raise awareness even further of the many choices open to all of us. The awards shone a light on the growing number of super talented, passionate Asian cooks and chefs, not just in our cities but also around the country.
Restaurants showcasing the food of China, Japan, Thailand, India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, Laos, Cambodia, Korea, Vietnam…how exciting is that?
My travels throughout Asia for many years have tantalised my palate and wetted my appetite for all those exciting flavours and diverse cuisines.
From the food obsessed city of Singapore, I yearn for chilli crab, roti prata, fish head curry and comforting, nourishing Hainanese chicken rice, the very best cure for jet lag.
How could I ever forget the feast of curries and sambals in Sri Lanka, one more delicious than the next.
Dim sum, Peking duck, noodle soups and irresistible dumplings in China.
Irresistible beef rendang, suckling pig and satay in Indonesia
A myriad of sushi, ramen noodles and yakitori in Japan.
Summer Spring rolls, Banh Mi, and Pho, the quintessential noodle broth in Vietnam to mention just a few.
Pad Thai, Tom yum soup, Massaman curry in Thailand but so much more to choose from.
In Cambodia, Amok, a steamed fish curry in banana leaves, nom banh choi, khmer rice noodles in curry and Papaya salad – put Cambodia on your bucket list too.
Masala chai, thalis, butter chicken, biryani and all the myriad of flatbreads in India and Pakistan
We also loved the food in Laos, khao niaw, sticky rice, larb moo salad, or Lam, a spicy, buffalo meat stew with lots of herbs unique to Laos…
Laksa, the spicy coconut noodle soup from Malaysia – one of my perennial favourites as is nasi lemak, coconut rice and kaya toast for breakfast.
I long to taste the many bulgogi, bibigo fermented kimchi in Korea and on and on…
All over Asia, piled up on market stalls, there are Durians, a stinky, prickly fruit with an overpoweringly pungent smell. It rewards the brave, just hold your nose and pick up courage to taste the divine, sweet, creamy deliciousness inside.
Asian cuisines have a rich and diverse history dating back thousands of years. It’s been shaped by a myriad of cultural influences, trade routes and regional ingredients. Asian traditions reflect the heritage and traditions of each country, making it a fascinating adventure for travellers and food lovers alike. Asian dishes are renowned for bold flavours, a unique combination of spices and a wide variety of ingredients.
The balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami flavours create a harmonious and unforgettable taste experience.
Much of the cooking is done over fire, stir fried in a wok, steamed or cooked in a tandoor oven.
Many dishes are of course best enjoyed in the midst of the hustle and bustle of an Asian street market but having said that, countless others are quick and easy to reproduce in our own kitchens, particularly nowadays when we have easy access to Asian ingredients in a growing number of specialty shops and even in supermarkets. Edamame beans, (immature soybeans in their pods) are available frozen in many supermarkets, a really easy place to start, just boil or steam, sprinkle them with a little flaky sea salt and enjoy. A delicious nibble, on their own or with drinks – super nutritious and can also be added to stir-fry and salads.
A few of my favourite simple Asian recipes to try.

Rosemary Kearney’s Chicken and Coconut Laksa

Everyone loves this soup – be sure to taste and add lots of freshly squeezed lime juice and maybe a dash more fish sauce.

Serves 6-8 as a starter

Ingredients

150g fine rice noodles

2 red chillies, chopped with seeds

4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped

150g fresh coriander, leaves and stalks coarsely chopped

juice of 1-2 limes

1 chicken breast, free range (cut into very thin shreds) (250g)

50ml toasted sesame oil

2 x 400ml tins coconut milk

generous 700ml homemade chicken stock

1 tablespoon Nam pla (fish sauce)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 spring onions, finely sliced at an angle

coriander leaves

Method

Pour boiling water over the bowl of rice noodles and allow to soak until soft – 10 minutes approximately. Drain and cut into 5cm lengths. Put the chilli, garlic, ginger, coriander and juice of one lime into a food processor and pulse to a coarse paste.

Thinly slice the chicken breast at an angle and set aside.

Heat the sesame oil in a large saucepan and fry the chilli paste for 3 minutes. Add the whisked coconut milk and chicken stock. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the thinly shredded chicken, bring back to the boil and barely simmer for a further 3-4 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. Add the fish sauce and taste and add more lime juice, salt and pepper if necessary.

Divide the noodles into serving bowls, ladle in the hot soup and garnish with spring onion and coriander leaves.

Note

Do not allow the soup to boil once the chicken is added, otherwise the meat will be tough. 

Chinese Dumplings

Deh-ta Hsiung, one of my heroes, was the first Chinese chef to teach at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. This is one of his many dumpling recipes, they can be served poached in broth or transformed into pot stickers. Deh-ta showed us how to make the dumplings from scratch but you could just buy ready made dumpling wrappers – they are widely available. Fat pork is essential otherwise the filling will be dry.

Makes 150 dumplings approximately

Ingredients

For the dough – use 9g per portion of dough per dumpling

450g plain white flour

about 225ml water

flour for dusting

For the filling:

675g Chinese cabbage

450g minced fat streaky heritage pork

2 tbsp finely chopped spring onions

2 tsp grated or finely chopped fresh ginger (peeled)

1 tsp salt

1 tsp sugar

2 tbsp light soy sauce

1 tbsp rice wine

1 tbsp Chinese sesame oil

Method

Sieve the flour into a bowl, slowly pour in the water and mix to a firm dough. Knead until soft and smooth. Cover with a damp cloth and let stand for 25-30 minutes.

Separate the Chinese leaves and blanch in a pan of boiling salted water for 2-3 minutes or until soft. Drain well, finely chop, cool and mix with the rest of the ingredients to make the filling.

Lightly dust a work surface with dry flour. Knead the dough, roll into a long sausage about 2.5cm in diameter. Cut off 10g pieces. Flatten each piece with the palm of your hand, then use a rolling pin to roll each piece into a thin circle about 6-7cm in diameter.

Put about 1 teaspoon of the filling in the centre of each circle. Fold into a semi-circle and pinch the edges firmly so that the dumpling is tightly sealed. Place the dumplings on a floured tray and cover with a damp cloth until ready for cooking. (Any uncooked dumplings should be frozen immediately rather than refrigerated).

To Cook

Bring 1 litre water to a fast rolling boil. Drop about 20 dumplings, one by one into the water. Stir gently with chopsticks or a wooden spoon to prevent them sticking together. Cover and bring back to the boil. Uncover and add about 50ml cold water, then bring back to the boil once more (uncovered). Repeat this process twice more. Remove and drain the dumplings and serve hot with a dipping sauce. Any leftovers should be reheated, not by poaching, but by shallow frying them, then they become pot stickers.

Grilled Dumplings (Pot-Stickers) – JIAOZI

Grilled dumplings, also known as Pot Stickers, are actually shallow-fried on one side, then steamed under cover so you end up with jiaozi that are crispy on the base, soft on the top and juicy inside.  Make the dumplings as in the previous recipe.

Heat about 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a frying pan, tilting the pan so that the entire surface is evenly coated with oil.

Arrange 8-10 dumplings neatly in rows and fry over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, or until the base of each dumpling is browned.

Pour about 50ml hot water down the side of the pan.  Cover and increase the heat to high.  Cook until almost all of the water has evaporated.

Uncover and continue cooking until all the water has evaporated.  Turn off the heat and use a spatula to loosen the dumplings from the bottom of the pan.  Cover the pan with a serving plate and quickly turn the pan over, so that the browned side of the dumplings is uppermost.  Serve hot with a dipping sauce.

Steaming Option

Besides poaching and grilling jiaozi, you can also steam them.  Place the dumplings on a bed of Chinese cabbage on the rack of a bamboo steamer and steam for 10-12 minutes over a high heat. 

Serve hot with a dipping sauce.

Note

To make a dipping sauce.

Ingredients

2 tbsp of light soy sauce

3 tbsp rice vinegar

2 tbsp ginger, finely shredded OR 1 tbsp spring onions, finely chopped

3 tbsp garlic, finely chopped garlic

Method

Blend all the ingredients together.

Edamame Beans with Sea Salt

These fresh soya beans in their pods are one of our favourite nibbles – they are not widely available fresh but can be found frozen and then cooked in minutes.

Serves 4-8

Ingredients

1.2 litres water

450g edamame

3 tsp sea salt

Method

Bring the water to the boil, add salt and the edamame beans. Bring back to the boil, cook for 3-4 minutes. Taste, if cooked enough (they should have a slight bite), drain and sprinkle with sea salt.  Serve cold.

Well, that’s Christmas over and done with for another year and what a jolly time it was. Lots of fun and yumminess and many reasons to give thanks for many, many blessings.
Bet you can’t face another festive meal, something small, simple and super tasty would be welcome so have a root through your fridge – I’ve got lots of little bits of this and that to put together in bizarre combinations but what I’m really craving is a plump melted toastie. Should I add in some of that leftover Cranberry Sauce – well maybe not…! But a few slices of glazed streaky bacon would definitely perk it up with a layer of pickled cucumber or onion marmalade. I do lots of riffs on toasties, add some chilli and spices for an Indian twist. Slather the cheese with Ancho and Guajillo chilli paste for a Mexican flavour. Or try an apricot jam, goat cheese, and thyme leaf toastie or halloumi, honey and rose harissa – a bit ‘off piste’ but a delicious combination nonetheless.
There’s a wedge of aged Cheddar in there too, so immediately I get a deep longing for a pot of Ballymaloe cheese fondue, I’d almost forgotten about it, I haven’t had it for ages. A recipe Myrtle Allen invented years ago to use Irish Cheddar cheese instead of Gruyère and Emmental. It was a regular on the Ballymaloe menu and is one of the most memorable, delicious and comforting cheese dishes to tuck into, particularly after Christmas. A pot of unctuous melting cheese in the centre of the table, some long handled fondue forks and a basket of cubes of crispy bread to scoop it up. A simple heartwarming supper and virtually no washing up…
We always used to joke that if you dropped your bread into the fondue, you’d have to kiss the person on your right so just in case make sure to seat yourselves cunningly at the table. Many Ballymaloe guests remember it wistfully, I seem to remember that it was a Friday night special.
Just three recipes in my column each week so the third has to be a gooey Mac and Cheese, but I also want to tell you about one of my favourite cheese snacks. A recipe given to me years ago by lovely Elizabeth Neave who worked at the Shanagarry Pottery.  Every time I enjoy it, I remember her, almost all my recipes have a story…
Mix 110g grated cheese, can be a mixture of any bits or just Cheddar. Stir it into a beaten egg, season generously with salt of fresh ground pepper and maybe a touch of mustard. Slather a slice of good white bread on one side with butter and spread the cheese mixture on the other side. Pop butter side down onto a baking tray and into a hot oven at 230°C/Gas Mark 8. When puffed and golden, approximately 10 minutes. Cut into fingers and enjoy immediately, you can’t imagine how delicious – treat yourself to a glass of dry white wine to celebrate, that’s my new year present to you.
Hope 2026 brings you much joy, happiness, contentment, and good health.

Cheese Toastie

Serves 1

A delicious cheese toastie depends on the sum of its parts, must be good bread, good butter, really tasty cheese – a Cheddar.

Ingredients

2 slices good pan loaf

butter

50-110g grated cheese, I love a mixture of grated aged Cheddar, maybe a little Gruyère and Parmesan

a little English mustard (I like to mix it from the dry mustard powder for a real punch!)

Method

Heat a dry pan on the stove/hob.

Butter both sides of the bread. Slather a little mustard on one slice (optional). Then spread an even layer of grated cheese out to the edges. Add some thinly sliced spring onion or leek on top. Season well. Press the second slice of bread onto the cheese. Lay butter side down onto the hot pan. Weigh it down and allow to cook on a medium heat for 3 or 4 minutes until deep golden, flip over and cook on the other side.

For extra deliciousness, although optional, remove from the pan, sprinkle some grated cheese onto the pan. Allow to melt and begin to turn golden, press the toastie down onto the cheese, run a slice underneath so it adheres to the toastie and wrap a little around the side. It’ll crisp up and add an extra special flavour.

Cut in half and serve immediately as the cheese oozes out…Enjoy

Ballymaloe Cheese Fondue

Cheese fondue is so retro but terrific fun.  Choose your seat carefully because if you drop the bread into the fondue, you must kiss the person on our right – this could be your big chance!

Myrtle Allen devised this Cheese Fondue recipe made from Irish Cheddar cheese. A huge favourite at Ballymaloe.  Even though it’s a meal in itself it can be made in minutes and is loved by adults and children alike. A fondue set is obviously an advantage but not totally essential.

Serves 2 – perfect for a romantic supper (Valentine’s Day is coming up too!

Ingredients

2 tbsp dry white wine

2 small cloves of garlic, crushed

2 tsp Ballymaloe Tomato Relish or any tomato chutney

2 tsp freshly chopped parsley

175g grated mature Cheddar cheese, there are lots to choose from – Hegarty’s, Knockanore, Mossfield Organic…but why not choose Coolattin or Mount Leinster made by Tom Burgess near Tullow in Co. Carlow

To Serve

crusty white bread

Method

Put the white wine and the rest of the ingredients into a fondue pot or small saucepan and stir. Just before serving, put over a low heat until the cheese melts and begins to bubble – a couple of minutes. Put the pot over the fondue stove and serve immediately.  Provide each guest with fresh bread or a rustic baguette crisped up in a hot oven.  They will also need a fondue fork and an ordinary fork.

Everyone’s Favourite Mac and Cheese

Mac and cheese is a bit like apple crumble, simple fare but everyone loves it, plus you can add lots of tasty bits to change it up. Macaroni cheese was and still is one of my children’s favourite supper dishes. I often add some

cubes of cooked bacon or ham to the sauce.

Serves 6

Ingredients

225g macaroni or ditalini

50g butter

150g onion, finely chopped

50g plain flour

850ml-1 litre boiling whole milk

¼ tsp Dijon or English mustard

1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)

225g freshly grated mature Cheddar cheese or a mix of Cheddar, Gruyère and Parmesan

25g freshly grated Cheddar and/or Parmesan cheese, for sprinkling on top (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Bring 3.4 litres water to the boil in a large saucepan and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Sprinkle in the macaroni and stir to make sure it doesn’t stick together. Cook according to the packet instructions until just

soft. Drain well.

Meanwhile, melt the butter over a gentle heat, add the chopped onion, stir to coat, cover and sweat over a gentle heat for 6-8 minutes. Add the flour and cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Whisk the milk in gradually, season well with salt and pepper, then return to the boil, stirring constantly. Add the mustard, parsley, if using, and cheese. Add the well-drained macaroni and return to the boil. Season to taste and serve immediately.

Alternatively, turn into a 1.2 litre pie dish and sprinkle the extra grated cheese over the top. Bake at 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 15-20 minutes.

GOOD THINGS WITH MAC & CHEESE

* Mac & Cheese Fritters

Heat olive oil in a deep-fat fryer at 180°C (350°F) or a deep saucepan with 5-7.5cm depth of oil. Roll the leftover mac and cheese into ping-pong-sized balls. Roll in seasoned flour, beaten eggs and fresh white or panko crumbs to coat. Fry for 4-5 minutes until crisp on the outside and melting in the interior. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and toss in freshly grated Parmesan. Serve with spicy mayo made by mixing 110ml homemade mayonnaise with tsp of sriracha, 2 tsp of sambal oelek or harissa and lemon juice to taste. Alternatively, allow the baked mac and cheese to get cold in the gratin dish. Cut into fingers or squares, dip in seasoned flour, egg and breadcrumbs and shallow-fry in olive oil for 3-4 minutes until crisp and golden on both sides. Serve with a dipping sauce or with the spicy mayo.

* Smoked Salmon or Smoked Mackerel

Add 225g smoked salmon or smoked mackerel dice to the mac and cheese before serving.

* Mushrooms & Courgettes

Add 225g sliced sauteed mushrooms and 225g sliced courgettes cooked in olive oil with a little garlic and marjoram or basil to the cooked mac and cheese. Toss gently, turn into a hot serving dish and scatter

with grated cheese and serve or reheat later.

* Chorizo

Add 225g diced chorizo and lots of chopped flat-leaf parsley to the mac and cheese before baking.

You can’t imagine how many requests I get for a foolproof recipe for roast spuds, so I’m going to devote this entire column to my favourite potato dishes including crisp, shaggy roasties to enjoy over Christmas and beyond.

I LOVE potatoes. I could write a whole book of delicious potato recipes. For me, it’s the hero of the vegetable world. I wince every time I hear it referred to as the humble spud! Perhaps it’s taken for granted just because it’s so inexpensive, super versatile and readily available…I’ll include my favourite recipe for roasties with lots of riffs, but the secret, as ever, is to source really terrific potatoes with a high starch content. My favourites are Golden Wonders but Maris Piper, King Edward and Dutch Creams are also known for their floury texture and crisp, shaggy crust. 

Choose unwashed potatoes, organic if possible. 

Scrub them under the cold tap, save the peels for potato peel crisps to nibble with Christmas drinks or sprinkle over salads. Par boil in well-salted water for 2-3 minutes and drain. The next, super important consideration…what fat or oil? For maximum flavour, avoid vegetable oil, use extra virgin olive oil or better still, duck, goose, turkey, chicken, pork or beef fat. The difference in flavour will be phenomenal, (save fats in little containers in the fridge during the year, they keep for months).

I also love squashed roasties – drizzle the roasting pan with one of the above. I often use extra virgin olive oil for this, an irresistible way to use leftover boiled potatoes – my family argue vociferously over them!

My last one, a creamy gratin with or without cheese is a ‘must’ to have in your fridge or freezer to pop into the oven over Christmas (check out the potato and mushroom gratin in my Examiner column of 11^th October). Delicious with cold meats on St. Stephen’s Day, a well-loved spontaneous accompaniment to a meal at any time over the holiday season.

The secret of fluffy mash is another frequently asked question. Here again, the potato variety is super important, seek out a starchy rather than waxy potato, e.g., King Edward, Golden Wonder, Maris Piper, Yukon Gold or Désirée. 

Boil in their jackets in well-salted water for max flavour. Peel while hot and beat well in a food mixer, add boiling milk, loads of butter, a good dollop of cream and lots of seasoning. 

The latest edition to my potato recipe repertoire is this hybrid Hasselback gratin. Starchy Russet potatoes are best. Could be a comforting dish on its own or a side with forgotten treasures from your fridge!

Always keep leftover boiled potatoes, brilliant for sauté potatoes or arrange thick slices on a well-oiled roasting tin. Season well, pop into a hot oven, flip over when golden, scatter generously with grated cheese and continue to cook until melty and crusty at the edges. You could add a few crispy bacon lardons, a sprinkling of chilli flakes…Scatter some freshly chopped fresh herbs over the top just before you serve, a delicious one-pan supper.

Best Roasties

This is my ‘go to’ recipe for crispy, shaggy roasties. Cut into halves or quarters if you’re after a crisper surface. If you fancy, scatter with fresh thyme leaves or freshly chopped rosemary, halfway through cooking.

Ingredients

8 potatoes, unwashed Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

Method

Choose medium to large potatoes of even size. Scrub and peel. Put into a saucepan, cover with cold salted water and bring to the boil just for 1 or 2 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Lightly scratch the surface with a fork and season with salt.

Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

Put the potatoes into smoking hot fat or olive oil. Baste occasionally. Roast until soft in the hot oven for 30-45 minutes depending on the size. Drain well on kitchen paper. Serve immediately.

Alternatively, put the potatoes into smoking hot fat in the same tin as the meat, 40-45 minutes before the meat is fully cooked and baste well. Cook until soft. (Baste the potatoes when you baste the meat and turn them over after 25 minutes). Drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately.

Fluffy Mashed Potatoes

Everyone loves a bowl of fluffy mash – a perfect side for so many dishes but I’ll happily tuck into a bowl with a lump of butter melting into the centre – what could be more comforting…

Serves 4

900g unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

300ml creamy milk

1-2 egg whites or 1 whole egg and 1 egg white

25-50g butter

2 tbsp freshly chopped herbs e.g. parsley, chives, thyme, lemon balm

Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, mash while hot (see below). (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes into the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade).

While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 300ml of milk to the boil (or better still, use half milk, half cream). Beat the egg whites into the hot mashed potatoes and add enough boiling creamy milk to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, add the herbs and then beat in the butter, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Note: If the potatoes are not peeled and mashed while hot and if the boiling milk is not added immediately, the potato will be lumpy and gluey.

Add chopped scallions for champ, cooked kale or cabbage for colcannon, peas and parsley for Ulster Champ…

Cheesy Hasselback Potato Gratin

Inspired by a recipe by J. Kenji López-Alt in The New York Times. The main difference here is placing the well-seasoned sliced potatoes in the casserole dish vertically. Arrange them on their edges rather than laying them flat. This will result in crisp ridges on top. A mandoline or food processor speeds up the process. Pack the potatoes tightly to keep them standing upright for the Hasselback effect.

Serves 6

Ingredients

75g finely grated Gruyère or Comté cheese

50g finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

450ml cream

2 medium cloves garlic, crushed

2 tsp fresh thyme leaves, roughly chopped

lots of salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.5 – 1.75kg russet potatoes, peeled and sliced 3mm thick on a mandoline slicer (12-14 medium potatoes approx.)

10g butter for greasing the casserole dish

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Combine the cheeses in a large bowl. Keep 40g of the grated cheese aside for later. Add the cream, garlic and thyme to the cheese mixture. Season generously with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add the potato slices and toss with your hands until every slice is coated with the cream mixture. Making sure to separate any slices that are sticking together to get the cream mixture in between them.

Grease a casserole dish (20.5cm x 20.5cm and 5cm depth) with butter.

Pick up a handful of potatoes, organise them into a neat stack, and lay them in the casserole dish with their edges aligned vertically. Continue placing potatoes in the dish, working around the perimeter and into the centre until all the potatoes have been added. The potatoes should be very tightly packed. Add an additional potato if necessary.

Pour the excess cream/cheese mixture evenly over the potatoes until the mixture comes halfway up the sides of the casserole. You may not need all the liquid, but I like it nice and juicy.

Cover the dish tightly with damp parchment paper. Transfer to the oven and cook for 30 minutes on the middle shelf of the oven. Remove the parchment paper and continue to bake until the top is pale golden brown, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and return to the oven. Cook until rich golden brown and crisp on top and around the edges, 30-40 minutes approx. Remove from the oven, allow to rest for a few minutes and serve.

Everyday life whizzes by so fast, don’t know about you but mine is full of good resolutions, many I don’t manage to achieve. As I get older, many of my best intentions seem to be vague plans to contact and get together with an old friend or friends I haven’t seen for ages.

For me, the days around Christmas are perfect for informal parties around the table or tables, sometimes guests spill into another room. It’s also the time of year when we have a few free days but everyone else is on holidays too so one has less help – a catch 22…Nonetheless, the most important thing is to actually get together, share a meal and to have a jolly catch up.

Doesn’t have to be super complicated and exotic, multi course meal. Let’s face it, the mere mention of the work Christmas makes many feel full!

I love a walk on a bright, blustery day and a picnic – I’m still a little ‘bokety’ but 3 months after my knee operation, I’m increasingly agile but not quite ready for a jaunt up the Comeraghs just yet!

Afternoon tea around the fire is an easy option, I’ve got a myriad of irresistible tray bakes or what are also called sheet pan recipes but today I’m concentrating on easy options to feed a crowd and those are mostly one pot, pan or roasting tin dishes. I’ve got masses of recipes for those both sweet and savoury.

But first, let me mention a soup supper – make a big pot (could be weeks ahead) of chunky vegetable soup, make lots so everyone can tuck into several bowls with several thick slices of good breads. Could be followed by a tempting selection of Irish farmhouse cheese or an Irish charcuterie board – think Gubbeen, Lúnasa Farm, Broughgammon, Sheridan’s Cheesemongers…

How about this Treacle Tart? It comes from the King Cookbook published by Flatiron Books who share their favourite recipes from the iconic and much loved restaurant on the corner of King St. in Manhattan. It’s owned and run by Ballymaloe Cookery School alumni Clare de Boer and Jess Shadbolt and their business partner Annie Shi. The food is ‘delicious’ not my words, but The New York Times so add it to your New York list.

Many other easy and delicious suggestions for easy ‘feed a crowd’ recipes can be found in my One Pot Feeds All cookbook published by Kyle Books – many people’s go to. I love to see dog eared copies on kitchen shelves…but one of my favourite Christmas picks is Eunice Powers My Irish Kitchen Table published by Gill Books, filled with Eunice’s infectious warmth and the delicious recipes that she has become justly famous for in the many events she caters for. I have to say how delighted I am when I hear that Eunice and her team are catering at an event – one can rest assured that the food and ambiance will be memorable!

I share her Chicken, Leek and Mushroom Casserole in White Wine Cream, a firm favourite with her clients for parties and buffets.

It’s a super easy – one roasting dish, easy to assemble and serve, so you too can enjoy the party. Just add a crunchy salad of winter leaves.

Enjoy the festive season and don’t forget a hug for the cook!

Festive Roast Fish three ways

An inspired way to cook whole fillets of fish, I’ve given three separate sauce suggestions here but even a simple dill butter makes roast fish into a feast. Needless to say, other fish, such as haddock, hake, ling, cod or pollock can be cooked in exactly the same way. For an Asian or Turkish twist, see the tempting variation below.

Serves about 20

Ingredients

1 whole trout or wild salmon

butter or extra virgin oil, about 25g/25ml

flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tomato and Dill Topping

4–8 tbsp chopped dill

8-10 ripe cherry tomatoes, deseeded and diced, sprinkled with a little flaky sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and sugar

110–225g extra virgin olive oil

Method

Preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 9.  

Descale the trout or salmon, fillet and remove the pin bones. For the topping, mix the dill and diced seasoned tomato together with the extra virgin olive oil.

Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Put the fillets of fish on top. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the dill and tomato oil over the surface. Roast for 8-10 minutes or until cooked and tender.

Serve in the tray or transfer the fish onto one or two hot serving dishes. Sprinkle with a little fresh dill and dill flowers. Serve immediately with a salad of organic green leaves.

Variations

Roast Salmon with Teriyaki Sauce

To make the teriyaki sauce, put 100ml light or dark soy sauce, 100ml dry white wine, 2 large, thinly sliced garlic cloves, a 4cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced, 2 tbsp of wholegrain mustard and 2 tbsp of soft brown sugar into a stainless-steel saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 3-4 minutes. (Alternatively, spoon over the fish before putting it in the oven.) Roast the fish as above. Brush the fish generously with the teriyaki sauce, sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve.

Roast Salmon with Pul Biber

Prepare the salmon as above, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with pul biber and flaky sea salt. Roast as above. Serve with a good green salad.

Chicken, Leek and Mushroom Casserole in White Wine Cream

Recipe from My Irish Kitchen Table by Eunice Power published by Gill Books

This dish is a firm favourite with my lovely clients for parties and buffets or as bowl food. It’s a real crowd-pleaser. If you prefer a thicker sauce, you can add a heaped teaspoon of flour to the leek and mushroom before adding the stock and wine reduction.

Serves 6

Ingredients

200ml chicken stock

200ml white wine

6 chicken fillets

30ml olive oil

30g butter

1 leek, outer leaves and tops removed, washed thoroughly and sliced

250g mixed mushrooms (or flat-cap mushrooms), sliced

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

240ml cream

small bunch of fresh tarragon, leaves stripped and finely chopped (or 1 scant tsp dried tarragon)

sea salt and black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/Gas Mark 4.

Place the chicken stock and white wine in a pan and simmer until reduced by half.

Season the chicken fillets with salt and pepper. In a large non-stick frying pan, heat half the olive oil over a medium heat. Pan-fry the chicken fillets for a few minutes on each side, until they’re golden and have a nice colour. You may need to do this in batches. Transfer the chicken to a roasting tin, add a tablespoon of the reduced wine and stock and 3 tablespoons of water. Place the tin in the oven and roast for 15 minutes. Once cooked, allow the chicken to cool.

Meanwhile, in a wide-based saucepan, heat the remaining olive oil and butter over a medium heat. Add the sliced leek and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add the mushroom and garlic, cooking for another 5 minutes. Pour in the reduced wine and stock and allow it to simmer.

Next, pour the cream into a small saucepan, bring it back to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until it has reduced by almost half.

Once the chicken has cooled, tear it into bite-sized pieces and add it to the leek and mushroom mixture. Stir in the reduced cream and the chopped tarragon. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Note

If you are preparing ahead of time, add the cream and tarragon only when you’re ready to serve. This dish is best served with creamy mashed potatoes.

Treacle Tart

Recipe from the King Cookbook published by Flatiron Books.

This tart is made with stale white breadcrumbs and treacle. It became a post-war favourite due to its humble cupboard-friendly ingredients.

This is a particularly rich and delicious version, serve in small slices with lots of softly whipped cream.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

1 x 25cm tart shell prepared with short-crust pastry and chilled (see recipe)

Filling

145g unsalted butter

900g Lyle’s Golden Syrup

100g heavy (whipping) cream

salt

2 lemons

3 large eggs

150g fine breadcrumbs

To serve

cold cream

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Prick the tart shell all over the bottom with a fork. Set the pan on a baking sheet and bake in the oven until the shell is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, at least 35 minutes.

To make the filling, brown the butter by heating it in a medium pot over a medium-low heat until it smells nutty and is a rich golden brown, 8 minutes. Do not let the butter burn! Turn off the heat.

Stir in the golden syrup, heavy cream and 2 teaspoons of salt into the browned butter and warm over medium heat, whisking, until the mixture emulsifies, 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, about 4 minutes, then finely zest the lemons directly into the pot. Stir to combine and cool the syrup until just warm to the touch, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, juice the zested lemons, strain the juice, and set aside.

When the syrup has partially cooled, whisk the eggs together in a large bowl. Whisk in a small amount of the warm syrup to temper the mixture so the eggs don’t curdle, then add the remaining syrup a little bit at a time. Whisk in the lemon juice and breadcrumbs.

Pour the filling into the cooled tart shell and bake in the oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. As the tart bakes, rotate the tin every 15 minutes so it cooks evenly.

Remove the tart from the oven and allow it to cool on a rack. Once cool enough to handle, but still warm enough that any leaked treacle is pliable, gently pop the tart of the tin’s ring.

Slice the tart and serve with cold cream.

Short-Crust Pastry

Our go-to short-crust pastry. This yields enough pastry for two tart shells. You can use one right away and the other will keep wrapped in the fridge for a couple of days or freezes very well.

Makes 2 x 30.5cm tart shells

Ingredients

350g plain white flour

100g granulated sugar

salt

225g unsalted butter, cut into 2.5cm cubes and chilled

3 large egg yolks

Method

Combine the flour, sugar and a pinch of salt in a food processor and pulse for a few seconds to combine. Add the cubed butter and pulse repeatedly, cutting the pieces into the flour until irregular pea-sized bits form, about 1 minute.

One at a time, add the egg yolks to the processor, blitzing each one in before adding the next. Stop blitzing once a dry, crumbly dough that’s mostly uniform comes together. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of parchment paper, divide it in half, and pat each half into a log. Wrap each one in parchment paper and chill in the fridge until firm, at least 30 minutes.

Once the dough is firm, grate one log directly into a 25cm tart shell, using the largest holes of a box grater. Then, working from the edges in, press the dough together, forming a 5mm thick pastry shell. Pay extra attention to the corners, as they can typically build up and get too dense.

Chill the tart shell in the fridge until cold to the touch, about 20 minutes, before using. The prepared shell holds, covered, for a day in the fridge. Freeze the extra log if you’re not making a second tart – it will keep until infinity. When ready to use, thaw it in the fridge.

As I write, we’ve just had the first really hard frost of the year. The gardens look absolutely magical this morning but I’ve been anxiously watching the red berries on the holly trees… hoping against hope that the hungry birds won’t polish off all the berries before I get a chance to pick sprigs to decorate the mantelpiece or to pop behind pictures on the walls, super old-fashioned I know but I really, really love holly and of course a real Christmas tree.
I’d just begun to scribble out my Christmas list but now I’m off to fill the bird feeders instead, hoping to distract the blackbirds and thrushes from the red and yellow berries.
Christmas is all about memories but let’s keep it simple this year. The challenge is not to get totally exhausted while creating those magical memories for everyone else. I can’t help dwelling on how stressful the Christmas season is for already crazy busy and overburdened parents.
For me and probably every one of us, it’s all about planning and lists and the joy of crossing off one job at a time.
It’s certainly much more fun and a heck of a lot less work when everyone gets involved, when each and every member of the family cheerfully takes responsibility for a different element of the festive season. Even the ‘littles’ can and usually love to contribute making decorations, illustrating place cards, practising singing carols!
This week I’m mulling over possible starters for the Christmas feast. Has to be something light, lovely, tantalisingly fresh and easy to serve. Our top pic are some delicious briny oysters, light and refreshing, not everyone’s choice I know but I love them on adorned but others will enjoy a spoonful of dressing on top. How about oysters with nam jim and crispy onions?
It can be prepared ahead and added quickly just as you serve.
Tiny pots of homemade smoked mackerel or chicken liver pâté with crostini or slivers of hot toast are an easy and delicious option – keep the helpings really small and add a little cucumber pickle to the smoked mackerel pâté plate. I love a few Pedro Ximénez raisins over the top of the chicken liver pate. Macerate the raisins several days ahead so they are plump and deliciously boozy.
Grape, melon and mint cocktail is a long time family favourite and many of you, I know have adopted it as part of your Christmas tradition too.
There are lots and lots of suggestions in my Christmas book, but I have four more to tempt you including two that will also appeal to your vegetarian and/or vegan guests.
How about smoked trout or salmon, cucumber and fennel pickle and watercress or ring the changes with Gravlax with cucumber ribbon salad and mustard and dill mayo.
Or how about some of Frank Hederman’s warm smoked salmon. All smoked fish keep well in the fridge for other spontaneous meals over the festive season.
Citrus fruits are at their best at this time of the year, plump, juicy and sweet, so how about a pink grapefruit granita with pomegranate and shredded mint. Light and refreshing before you tuck into several slices of plump turkey or goose with all the trimmings.
I also love the option of a light little salad starter. I’m particularly fond of this kale, fennel and radish salad with a sprinkling of Parmesan or aged Coolea on top. It will also appeal to your vegetarian guests, omit the cheese for your vegan friends, it’ll still be fresh and delicious.
It’s also worth having a few soups in the fridge freezer and particularly fond of celeriac and hazelnut soup or Jerusalem artichoke with avocado and roasted cashew nuts.
Have fun and enjoy the festive season.

Gravlax with Cucumber Ribbon Salad and Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise

Smoked salmon can be substituted for the gravlax if desired.

Serves 8

Ingredients

225-350g gravlax (see recipe)

mustard and dill mayonnaise (see recipe)

Cucumber Ribbon Salad

1 cucumber

75-110g sugar

2 tsp salt

75ml cider vinegar

Garnish

sprigs of fresh dill

chive flowers

freshly cracked black pepper

Method

Two to three days before, prepare the gravlax. On the day of serving, make the pickled cucumber ribbons. Cut the cucumber in half, then cut into strips using a potato peeler. Put the cucumber into a deep bowl and add the sugar, salt and cider vinegar. Toss gently and leave for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile make the mustard and dill mayonnaise (see recipe).

To assemble, unwrap the gravlax, wipe off the dill mixture and cut down to the skin in thin slices. Arrange the drained cucumber strips and the gravlax in a haphazard way on each serving plate. Drizzle with mustard and dill mayonnaise. Garnish with tiny sprigs of dill and chive flowers. Finally, add a little freshly cracked black pepper over each serving.

Gravlax

This is a simply brilliant standby, miles more impressive than smoked salmon.  We use it for canapés, starter salads or as a main course for light summer lunch with pickled cucumber, deliciously runny semi-hard boiled eggs and salad leaves.

We are all addicted to this pickled salmon, which keeps for up to a week. Fresh dill is essential, but we also have fun with black peppercorns, coriander seeds, wholegrain mustard and vodka. Slices of beetroot on the salmon will dye the surface of the fish pink – festive and fun

Serves 12 – 16 as a starter

Ingredients

1 or 2 sides of trout or wild Irish salmon if you are lucky enough to get some (approx. weight 1.1kg each side)

4 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill, plus extra to garnish

2 heaped tbsp sea salt

2 heaped tbsp sugar

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Method

Fillet the trout or salmon and remove all the bones with tweezers. Mix the dill, salt, sugar and pepper together in a bowl.  Place the fish on a piece of parchment paper and scatter the mixture over the surface of the fish. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours, or better still, up to 2 days.

To serve, wipe the dill mixture off the salmon and slice thinly down onto the skin.

Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise

Great with gravlax. And yes, you do need all this mustard and sugar.

Makes 425ml

Ingredients

1 large egg yolk, preferably free-range and organic

2 tbsp French mustard

1 tbsp sugar

150ml groundnut or sunflower oil

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill

salt and white pepper

Method

Whisk the egg yolk with the mustard and sugar, drip in the oil drop by drop, whisking all the time, then add the vinegar and fresh dill and season with salt and white pepper.

Ruby Grapefruit, Pomegranate and Shredded Mint Salad

The pomegranate season used to be very short, but now they seem to be available virtually all year round. Some are much paler – look out for the variety called Wonderful.  A perfect starter before Christmas dinner – fresh, light and delicious.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

2 ruby grapefruit

½ -1 tbsp fresh pomegranate seeds

3 tbsp of shredded fresh mint leaves

1-2 tbsp caster sugar

Garnish

fresh mint or lemon balm leaves

Method

Peel the skin from the grapefruit with a sharp knife so that all the pith is removed. Segment the grapefruit and put it into a bowl. Toss the pomegranate seeds into the bowl. Add the shredded mint leaves, sprinkle with sugar and taste for sweetness. Leave to macerate for at least 10 minutes.

Serve chilled in pretty white bowls or on plates.  Spoon a little juice over the salad. Garnish with fresh mint or lemon balm leaves.

Kale, Fennel, Radish and Parmesan Salad

So delicious and fresh tasting – the perfect salad before a festive meal. I also love to use an aged Coolea or Hegarty’s Cheddar cheese.

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients

110g fennel, thinly sliced

8 radishes (preferably French Breakfast), thinly sliced at a long angle

150g green curly kale, stalks included

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp lemon juice

4 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese

salt and freshly ground pepper

Keep the sliced fennel and radishes in iced water for at least 5 minutes. Drain well. Remove the stalks from the kale and shred the leaves very finely (discard the stalk).

Method

Put the kale, drained fennel and radishes into a bowl. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Grate on some Parmesan with a microplane. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss, taste and serve.

Christmas Salad of Pomegranates, Persimmons and Pecans

Such an exquisite combination – a delicious starter or a side salad with cold meats, best made close to enjoying !

Serves 8

Ingredients

Vinaigrette

2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar or Sherry vinegar

2 tsp Dijon mustard

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

salt and freshly ground pepper

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

3 ripe Fuyu persimmons (little firm persimmons)

3 ripe d’Anjou or other pears

1 lime, freshly squeezed

seeds from ½ pomegranate

a selection of frizzy lettuce, watercress and rocket leaves

1 lime freshly squeezed

75-110g fresh toasted pecans

Method

First make the vinaigrette.

Mix the Balsamic or sherry vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper.  Whisk in the olive oil until emulsified.

Slice the persimmons and pears into slices about 5mm thick.  Put into a medium bowl and sprinkle with freshly squeezed lime juice.  Add the pomegranate seeds.  Toss gently.

Wash and dry the greens, store in a clean towel in the fridge until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4

Put the pecans onto a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 5-6 minutes, tossing gently from time to time.  Alternatively toast under a grill.

To Serve

Toss the greens in some of the vinaigrette and arrange on eight plates.  Toss the fruit mixture lightly in the remaining vinaigrette.  Arrange on top of the greens and sprinkle with the toasted pecans.  Serve immediately.     

I don’t have to tell you that the cost of beef has gone ‘through the roof’ recently, I’m hoping that the farmers are benefiting from the extra premium. A juicy steak or roast rib of dry aged beef with three sauces – maybe horseradish, béarnaise and aioli is irresistible. Lots and lots of roasties cooked in sizzling beef tallow, delicious but super expensive.
So, how about seeking out some venison? It’s got the advantage of being both plentiful and sustainable, it’s a fraction of the price, bursting with gamey flavour and so satisfying on chilly winter days or at any time of the year for that matter.
As ever, there’s venison and venison. Here in Ireland, there are several breeds, native red deer, Sika, Fallow, and more recently introduced Muntjac. I enjoy them all but I’m particularly fond of the noble Irish red deer, our native and largest species, culled in the field by a crack marksman with a licence rather than roadkill! In the wild, their numbers are increasing rapidly. According to Alan Krauss of Killua Castle in Co. Meath, in red deer, eighteen months seems to be the optimum age for flavour and tenderness.
Deer need to be gralloched (eviscerated) immediately in the field, then hung for one to two weeks at two to five degrees depending on the process.
The meat of wild deer is dark, rich, virtually fat-free and totally free-range, one of the healthiest meats one can choose – no antibiotics, hormones or growth promoters…
They live a happy life, ranging freely in the woods and forests, multiplying freely. Deer, sometimes wild and other escapees from deer parks, are rapidly spreading across the countryside, often causing damage to farmers’ crops and young tree plantations. Here in Ireland, they have no predators so need to be culled which is carefully regulated, hence venison has the advantage of being both plentiful and sustainable.
Not every butcher sells venison but register your interest or contact several producers around the country directly – Killua Castle, Co. Meath immediately springs to mind, although they can scarcely keep up with the demand for their prime cuts and juicy venison burgers enhanced by fat from the wild boar also on the estate.
The prime cuts, loin and haunch can of course be roasted, the shoulder meat is perfect for stews, casseroles and venison or game pies and venison burgers. The lap and indeed the shoulder can be made into venison chilli con carne or venison sausages or indeed venison burgers. You will need to mix the fresh mince with some good fatty streaky pork otherwise it will be dry and crumbly.
Cook the haunch rare or medium rare so it’s still tender and juicy. Well done venison can be dry and dull and is certainly not a gastronomic experience and unlikely to garner new fans. Use any leftovers to make a gamekeeper’s pie.
Other cooks and chefs have fun making venison sausages and salami. The bones make a delicious broth for a game consommé.
The loin may be roasted or cut into chops or steaks to be pan-grilled or fried. Better still just use the eye of the loin, cut into medallions and quickly pan-fried. Add the scraps to the mince – don’t waste a scrap.
Lots of champ is a must with venison stew or casserole. Chips or roast potatoes are great with roasts or burgers.
For those of you who are fortunate enough to get your hands on really fresh venison liver, slice it thinly, toss in seasoned flour and cook on the pan in sizzling butter for a minute or two on each side. Serve with hot toast and a freshly tossed salad of Autumn leaves.
One could add some crushed juniper berries and a little paprika or chilli flakes to the flour for extra oomph.
Freshness is everything here, so delicious and a rare treat.
Invite some friends around, crack open a bottle of full bodied red and enjoy. Lot’s more recipes for venison in my Forgotten Skills book and in One Pot Feeds All published by Kyle Books.

Venison Liver

If ever you have the chance to taste fresh venison liver, do so. It’s a revelation, but it must be super fresh. It is best eaten on the same day but would still be worth trying the following day.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

fresh venison liver (about 450g) cut into 1cm slices

flour seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground pepper

50g clarified butter, more if you need it (see recipe)

extra virgin olive oil

To Serve

bubble and squeak or champ or colcannon

watercress or flat parsley

Method

Dip the slices of liver in the seasoned flour. Heat some clarified butter or extra virgin olive oil in the pan over a high heat. Cook the liver for 30 seconds on each side. Serve immediately on hot plates with freshly cooked bubble and squeak and some watercress or sprigs of flat parsley – divine.

Venison liver is also delicious with champ or colcannon.

Clarified Butter

Melt 225g butter gently in a saucepan or in a Pyrex measure in a low oven 150°C/Gas Mark 2. Allow it to stand for a few minutes, then spoon the crusty white layer of salt particles off the top of the melted butter. Underneath this crust there is clear liquid butter which is called clarified butter. The milky liquid at the bottom can be discarded or used in a white sauce.

Clarified butter is excellent for cooking because it can withstand a higher temperature when the salt and milk particles are removed. It will keep covered in a refrigerator for several weeks.

Venison and Parsnip Stew

The flavour of this stew really improves if you cook it the day before and reheat it the next day – as well as improving the flavour, cooking the venison in advance ensures that it is meltingly tender. If ‘needs must’ and you are racing against the clock, just mix all the ingredients in the casserole, bring to the boil and simmer gently until cooked. Baked potatoes work brilliantly with venison stew, but a layer of potatoes on top provides a wonderfully comforting meal in one pot. Scatter lots of fresh parsley over the potatoes before tucking in.

Serves 8-12

Ingredients

1.3kg shoulder of venison, trimmed and cut into 4cm cubes

50g plain flour, for dusting

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

225g piece of fatty salted pork or green streaky bacon, cut into 4cm cubes

2 large onions, chopped

1 large carrot, diced

2 large parsnips, diced

1 large garlic clove, crushed

450ml homemade beef stock

bouquet garni

8-12 medium potatoes, peeled (optional)

a squeeze of organic lemon juice

flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Marinade

300-350ml gutsy red wine

1 medium onion, sliced

3 tbsp brandy

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

bouquet garni

Horseradish Sauce (optional)

To Serve

lots of chopped flat-leaf parsley

green vegetables, such as Brussels sprouts, calabrese or cabbage

Method

First marinate the meat.

Season the cubes of venison with salt and pepper. Combine all of the ingredients for the marinade in a large bowl, add the venison and set aside to marinate for at least 1 hour, or better still overnight.

Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 2.

Drain the meat, reserving the marinade, and pat dry with kitchen paper. Tip the flour onto a plate and season well. Turn the cubes of venison in the seasoned flour to coat on all sides.

Heat the oil in a 25cm (3.2-litre) casserole pan over a low heat, add the salted pork or bacon and cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring, until it starts to release its fat. Increase the heat to medium and fry the salted pork or bacon until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Add the venison to the casserole in batches and fry over a medium heat until nicely coloured on all sides. Avoid the temptation to increase the temperature or the fat will burn. Remove and set the batch aside while you colour the rest.

Toss the vegetables in the casserole, stir in the garlic and then add the pork or bacon and venison.

Pour off any surplus fat from the casserole and remove the meat and veg and set aside. Deglaze the casserole by pouring in the strained marinade. Bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the crusty bits on the base, add the pork or bacon and vegetables back in.

Pour over enough stock to cover the meat and vegetables and put in the bouquet garni. Bring the casserole to a gentle simmer on the hob, then cover with a lid and transfer to the oven for 1 ½ hours.

Remove the casserole from the oven and cover the surface of the stew with the peeled whole medium potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the potatoes with a circle of greaseproof paper, and then the lid of the saucepan. Return the casserole to the oven and cook for a further 1 hour or until both the venison and potatoes are cooked.

Season to taste. As well as adding salt and pepper, I find it often needs a bit of acidity in the form of lemon juice or crab apple jelly, if available.

Scatter with lots of freshly chopped parsley and serve with a nice big dish of Brussels sprouts, calabrese or cabbage and some homemade horseradish sauce.

Variation

Venison and Parsnip Pie

This makes a delicious pie. Fill the cooked stew into one or two pie dishes. Cover with a generous layer of mashed potato or puff pastry.

Roast Haunch of Venison with Plum Sauce

A haunch of venison makes a splendid party dish.

Serves 20 people approx.

Ingredients

1 haunch of venison – approx. 2.7-3.2kg in weight

To lard venison

225g back fat or very fat streaky pork or pork caul fat

Marinade

1 dsp mixed fresh herbs, thyme, savoury, marjoram and sage

4 tbsp olive oil

110ml dry white wine

Gravy

600ml beef or venison stock

roux (optional – made from equal quantities of flour and butter cooked on a low heat for two minutes stirring occasionally)

To Serve

plum sauce (see recipe)

Method

First lard the venison.

Cut the pork back fat into wide strips. Insert a strip into a larding needle, draw a lardon through the meat to make a stitch; trim the end. Repeat the stitches at 2.5cm intervals to make horizontal rows, positioning each row about 1cm away from the previous row, repeat with the remainder of the fat. Put the haunch into a shallow dish, stainless steel or cast iron, not tin or aluminium. Sprinkle it with the freshly chopped herbs. Pour the olive oil and wine over the meat. Cover the dish or tray and marinate the meat for about 4 hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator overnight, turning the meat occasionally. The liquid from this marinade will be used to baste the meat during cooking.

To Cook.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Remove the cover, weigh the venison and calculate 10 minutes to every 450g.  After 20 minutes reduce the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and cook for the remaining time at this temperature. We like our venison slightly pink and still very juicy, so I usually turn off the oven then and leave the meat relax for 20-30 minutes. During the cooking time, baste every 10 minutes with the oil and wine marinade and turn the joint over halfway through. When the venison is cooked, remove to a serving dish while you make the gravy.

Degrease the roasting pan, add about 600ml homemade beef or venison stock and perhaps a dash of wine. Bring to the boil, scraping and dissolving the sediment and crusty bits from the pan. Thicken slightly with a little roux if desired, taste and correct the seasoning, pour into a warm gravy boat.

To serve the haunch of venison. 

Serve the haunch of venison on a large serving dish surrounded by roast potatoes, red cabbage, celeriac purée or Brussels sprouts would be a delicious accompaniment. Carve on to very hot plates. Serve with plum sauce.

Note: It is very easy to overcook venison mainly because it goes on cooking after the oven has been turned off.

Plum Sauce

This is also delicious with duck breast or wild duck.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

450g blood plums or damsons

225g sugar

2 cloves

2.5cm piece cinnamon stick

25g butter

2 tbsp redcurrant jelly

110ml port

Method

Put the plums into a stainless-steel saucepan with the sugar, cloves, cinnamon, 1 tablespoon water and the butter. Cook slowly until reduced to a pulp. Push the fruit through a fine sieve and return the purée to a clean saucepan. Add the redcurrant jelly and port, bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. The sauce may be served either hot or cold. It keeps well.

Recently at the Munster Technological University in Cork, I was deeply honoured to receive an Honorary Doctorate in Arts. It was presented by Maggie Cusack, President of the University during the graduation ceremony of hundreds of excited students and their proud parents and friends.
‘The doctorate was presented in recognition of Dr Allen’s exceptional contribution to Irish food culture, her leadership in championing sustainable farming practices and her role in inspiring generations of chefs, producers and food advocates in Ireland and around the world. Her impact on Irish food, culture, and education is immeasurable. Through her vision and dedication, she has transformed how we think about food not just as nourishment but as a way of connecting people, protecting the planet and preserving traditions. Her work exemplifies the values we strive to instil in our students: innovation, creativity and a deep sense of responsibility to society and the environment. We are honoured to recognise her achievements with this honorary doctorate’.
To top it all, Jimmy Deenihan, chair of the MTU governing body stated that in his opinion I was an original ‘influencer’ and brought the value of homegrown food and cooking to the masses – how cool was that, my cup was full!
So, as I sat there in my satin red, blue and gold robe and black velvet hat listening to the tributes, it almost felt surreal. My mind raced back to my school days when the wonderful nuns who educated my friends and I in the mid-60s, urged us girls to have a proper career – study law, architecture, medicine, engineering, the sciences…
They appeared to be in despair, when all I seemed to want to do was to cook or garden.
‘You’re never going to need that my dear, you’ll have someone to cook and do your garden for you, strive to be a career woman, concentrate on a set of academic skills’.
The subliminal message was loud and clear, practical life skills were of much lesser value and really were only for those who were a bit slow or unambitious.
Men were chefs, women could not get into top kitchens at that time. My choice was a degree in horticulture or in the hospitality industry. I chose the latter and did Hotel and Catering Management in Cathal Brugha Street in Dublin where I accidentally heard about Myrtle Allen. This ‘extraordinary woman’ with no official training, who in the early 1960’s had opened a restaurant in her old historic house in the midst of a farm close to the sea, way out in the countryside in East Cork. Pretty revolutionary at that time. She wrote the menu every day depending on what was in season, freshest and best on the farm and garden, in the local area and the freshly caught fish that came in from the boats in the nearby fishing village of Ballycotton.
This, by the way, was quite revolutionary at the time, chefs wrote a menu when a restaurant opened and it could be the same 10 years later.
Myrtle on the other hand, searched for the very best local and artisan producers around the country and showcased them on the menu at a time when the word local was still a derogatory term.
She reinforced my mother‘s values around real, flavourful, homegrown and home cooked food and spread joy from the kitchen. I soaked up every word as I worked alongside her in Ballymaloe House kitchen, then became a member of the family by the simple expedient of marrying the boss’s son.
Awards helped to spread the word and cooking gradually became cool, exciting and the way to a proper career. TV and cookbooks followed and an abundance of opportunities.
The Ballymaloe Cookery School launched in 1983 was the opportunity to pass on the skills and philosophy to a new generation of cooks and chefs who carried the message around the globe.
So, with just one skill, considered to be of lesser value, I’ve had a wonderfully exciting and rewarding life.
I’d been asked to say ‘a few words’ to the graduates, so I urged them, no matter what their degree, masters or PhD’s, to make some time to learn to cook. One thing we need to do every day is to eat, so in the words of Margaret Visser, ‘Much depends on Dinner’. Our energy, vitality and ability to concentrate depends to a great extent on the quality of the food we eat.
If one can’t cook, which sadly is a majority of folks nowadays, you’re totally reliant on others to feed you, or one needs to buy a ready meal or ultra-processed foods, rarely as nutritious or delicious as what you could whip up in a couple of minutes yourself.
When you have a few basic cooking skills, you’re in charge of your own health, it’s good to remember that every bite of food has a positive or negative effect on our wellbeing. Pay now or pay later – our food should be our medicine…
When you can cook, it’s one of the easiest ways to win friends and influence people.
One can get a job anywhere in the world.
If you can whip up a spontaneous meal, you’ll never be short of friends. After all, the way to everyone’s heart is through their tummy.
My latest start-up project at 77, the Ballymaloe Organic Farm School, provides me with the opportunity to pass on the knowledge and skills from our very diverse, working farm and gardens which have been managed organically for almost 30 years. The response illustrates the deep craving to relearn forgotten skills and also do something with one’s hands. How wonderful that things are coming full circle at last.
The honour I received from Munster Technological University in Cork is a tribute to the many cooks, teachers and farmers who continue to inspire me. It is heartening to see that MTU places such value on sustainability, creativity and community which are all essential ingredients in building a better future.
I warmly congratulated all the graduates, wished them well on their new adventure and urged them to grasp the myriad of opportunities, to go out and use their skills and knowledge to help others less fortunate and make a difference for the betterment of mankind.
Back into the kitchen for me and I joyfully share a couple of simple recipes for comforting wholesome dishes to share with your family and friends.

Winter Leek and Potato Soup

The classic winter soup loved by everyone, from tiny tots to elders. Once again, this soup can be served either with the chunks of veg intact or puréed.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

50g butter

450g potatoes, peeled and cut into 5mm dice

110g onion, peeled and cut into 5mm dice

450g white parts of the leeks, finely sliced (save the green tops for another soup or vegetable stock)

salt and freshly ground pepper

850ml – 1.2 litres light homemade chicken stock (*see note at end of recipe)

125ml cream

125ml whole milk

Garnish

cream

finely chopped chives

Method

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan, when it foams, add the diced potatoes, onions and leeks, turn them in the butter until well coated. Season well, sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper and toss again. Cover with a paper lid (to keep in the steam) and the saucepan lid. Sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not coloured. Meanwhile, heat the stock. Discard the paper lid. Add 850ml* hot stock, bring back to the boil and simmer until the vegetables are just cooked. Do not overcook or the soup will lose its fresh flavour.

Liquidise until smooth and silky, taste and adjust the seasoning. Add cream and creamy milk to taste. *You may need to add extra stock if you would prefer a thinner soup.

Garnish with a swirl of cream and some finely chopped fresh chives.

Variations: A tbsp of finely sliced buttered leeks served in the centre of this soup makes a more substantial version.

Basic Brown Soda Bread

This is a more modern version of Soda Bread, couldn’t be simpler, just mix and pour into a well-greased tin.  This bread keeps very well for several days and is also great toasted.

Makes 1 loaf

Ingredients

400g stone ground wholemeal flour

75g white flour, preferably unbleached

1 tsp salt

1 level tsp bread soda, sieved (bicarbonate of soda/baking soda)

1 egg, preferably free-range

1 tbsp sunflower oil, unscented

1 tbsp honey or treacle

425ml whole buttermilkor sour milk approx., add 1-2 tbsp cream if using low fat buttermilk

sunflower or sesame seeds (optional)

loaf tin 23×12.5x5cm

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Method

Put all the dry ingredients including the sieved bread soda into a large bowl, mix well. Whisk the egg, add the oil, honey and buttermilk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in all the liquid, mix well and add more buttermilk if necessary. The mixture should be soft and slightly sloppy, pour into the oiled tin – using a butter knife, draw a slit down the middle. Sprinkle some sunflower or sesame seeds on the top. Bake in the preheated oven for 60 minutes approximately or until the bread is nice and crusty and sounds hollow when tapped. Cool on a wire rack.

Super Seed Bread

Add 1 tbsp of sunflower seeds, 1 tbsp of sesame seeds, 1 tbsp of pumpkin seeds, 1 tbsp of kibbled wheat to the dry ingredients. Keep a mixture to scatter over the top of the loaf before baking.

*Note

The quantity of buttermilk can vary depending on thickness. 

Apple Crumble

After this year’s bumper apple harvest, you or your friends will probably still have lots of apples to enjoy. Easy and inexpensive to make for students and delicious to share with your friends. Crumbles are the ultimate comfort food, vary the fruit according to the season.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

700g Bramley Seedling cooking apples

40-50g granulated sugar

1-2 tbsp water

Crumble

50g cold butter

110g white flour, preferably unbleached

50g caster sugar

¼ – ½ tsp cinnamon (optional)

25g chopped almonds or hazelnuts (optional)

To Serve

softly whipped cream

soft brown sugar

1.2 litre capacity pie dish

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Peel the apples, cut into quarters, remove the core and cut into large cubes.

Turn into a pie dish. Sprinkle over the granulated sugar. Add the water. 

Rub the butter into the flour just until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, add the sugar, cinnamon and chopped nuts if using. Sprinkle this mixture over the apple in the pie dish. Bake in a preheated oven for 30-45 minutes or until the topping is cooked and golden. Serve with softly whipped cream and soft brown sugar.

Blackberry and Apple and Sweet Geranium Crumble

Use three-quarters apple to one-quarter fresh or frozen blackberries and proceed as in the master recipe.  Mix 2 chopped sweet geranium leaves (Pelargonium graveolens) to the above (optional).

Apple and Mincemeat Crumble

Spread one third to a half pot of mincemeat on the base of the pie dish, top with apples and proceed as above.  A brilliant way to use up left-over mincemeat after Christmas!

Apple and Granola Crumble

Melt 50g of butter in a sauté pan, add 300g granola, stir to coat.  Sprinkle over the apple and bake as in the master recipe. 

Variations on the Crumble

1. 25g oat flakes or sliced hazelnuts or nibbed almonds could also be added to the crumble.

2. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or mixed spice is also a delicious addition.

Padella beside Borough Market in London is my absolute favourite London pasta restaurant. I love it so much that I’ve actually been pondering whether I really want to share this precious nugget of information. It’s already super busy, you can’t book, but it’s so good that I don’t mind waiting.
Could be 30 to 60 minutes, however, you can use the WalkUp app to join a virtual queue – a restaurant definitely needs to be really good to endure a wait that long.
The App allows you to save your place in line virtually. Padella will notify you when it’s your turn so you can enjoy an aperitivo close by or pop into Borough Market to wander around the stalls.
Pasta is my much loved comfort food. My first experiments making homemade pasta were back in the late 70’s from a recipe I found in a Gourmet Magazine, the legendary but now defunct American Food and Travel Magazine. I carefully sourced durum semolina, made the pasta dough, kneaded, then laboriously hand sliced into tagliatelle. I hung the pasta over the front rail of the Aga to dry and still remember, Wowie, our little fox terrier jumped up to steal it when I left the kitchen for a few minutes. Heartbreaking after all my hard work – we’re talking the early 1980’s. Soon afterwards, I heard about Marcella Hazan, the Italian cook and cookbook author. I travelled all the way to Bologna in Piedmont in northern Italy to join a weeklong course, so I learned how to make tender pasta, plump tortellini, ravioli and cappelletti from none other than the legendary Marcella Hazan herself and the nonnas at Ristorante Diana. Good homemade pasta takes time to make and is sublime but Marcella was at pains to point out that homemade pasta is not necessarily better than a really good brand of Italian ‘bought’ pasta, It’s just different and should be paired with different sauces depending on the shape and size, a point, Tim SIADATAN in his excellent new book Padella is also anxious to stress. For those of you who would like to make your own pasta I really think that this is the book you’ve been waiting for.
Trullo, Tim‘s first restaurant, continues to be celebrated, but when Padella was launched in 2016, it was an immediate hit and became a phenomenon virtually overnight. It continues to attract customers who are happy to queue in rain, hail or snow, quite the achievement eight years later.
In this new tome with over 100 recipes, Tim shares all his best loved dishes from the iconic restaurant and several of his own kitchen supper favourites. It’s published by Bloomsbury at £25 and is worth every penny.
There is now a second Padella in Shoreditch. I’ve never been there, but I hear it’s every bit as good.
Many of my favourite pasta dishes from Padella are there –
pici cacio e pepe, pappardelle with beef shin ragu, gnocchi with nutmeg butter, gnudi with pumpkin…

Here are a few recipes to whet your appetite.

Extract taken from Padella by Tim Siadatan (Bloomsbury Publishing)

Padella’s Pici Cacio e Pepe

I’m eternally grateful for this dish because it caused a lot of noise when we first opened Padella and was the main reason we had queues around the block. Quite simply, it put us on the map.

I’m fully aware it’s different to the classic Roman recipe that uses pecorino Romano, pepper and water, which is totally delicious. And if I was opening Padella today, I would have called it ‘Pici with butter, Parmesan and black pepper,’ because I didn’t know it would upset some people. The truth is, in a restaurant in Panzano, I saw an Italian chef add butter to their cacio e pepe and when I asked her why, she said, ‘because I’m not in Rome.’

The key to creating the smooth, oozy sauce is grating the Parmesan super- fine, and if you want to nail this recipe, I highly recommend you read my short explanation on melting Parmesan (on page 36). Also, I toast the freshly cracked pepper in a dry pan to release the oils and make the flavour stronger – you want the pepper to tickle your nostrils when you eat the dish.

Serves 4

Ingredients

500g fresh pici (see recipe)

about 1 heaped tsp freshly cracked black pepper

110g unsalted butter, cubed

a squeeze of lemon juice (about 10ml)

110g Parmesan, finely grated

sea salt

Method

For the pici, in a large cooking pot, bring 4-5 litres water to the boil and add a fistful of salt (only a fraction is absorbed into the pasta).

At the same time, in a pan large enough to easily hold all of the cooked ingredients, toast the freshly cracked pepper over a high heat for roughly 45-60 seconds or until you can smell the pepper, shaking the pan regularly to prevent it burning. Immediately add around 200ml of the seasoned pasta water (it will sizzle) and take the pan off the heat for 30 seconds.

Put the pan back over a medium-low heat, add the butter with the lemon juice to melt gently, then take off the heat. (It’s important to keep it off the heat while you cook the pasta, so that the pan isn’t scorching hot when you add the Parmesan.)

Loosen the pici bundles through your fingers so they won’t stick together as they cook. Drop the pici into the boiling water and cook for around 5 minutes.

Drain the pici as soon as it’s ready, keeping two mugs of pasta water.

Transfer the cooked pici to the buttery pepper sauce, put the pan back over a medium heat and stir until fully coated. Don’t worry if it looks quite soupy at this stage; the sauce will thicken more quickly than you think.

Add the grated Parmesan to the pici and stir vigorously to melt it into the sauce. You should see a bit of steam rising out of the pan as you stir, so adjust your heat up if this isn’t happening. You might need to add small splashes of the reserved pasta water if the sauce needs loosening, stirring until you achieve a smooth, oozy sauce.

Once you’re happy with the consistency of the sauce, serve up the pasta on hot plates. Eat straight away.

Pici Dough

Originating from Tuscany, pici is as frugal as it gets and super-easy to make. You don’t need a pasta machine to roll the pici dough, which can be a fun communal activity, so I highly recommend getting others involved – the more the merrier.  

Makes enough for 4 people

Ingredients

365g strong white bread flour, plus about 200g for storing

the pici

155g tepid water

25ml extra virgin olive oil

5g salt

Method

Put all the ingredients into a large bowl and mix until a dough is formed. (Alternatively, you can put all the ingredients into a food processor and whiz until a dough forms.)

Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and knead by pushing, stretching and rolling for few minutes until it’s smooth.

Wrap the dough ball in cling film and leave to rest somewhere cool for at least 30 minutes, or keep in the fridge for up to 2 days.

To roll the pici

1. On a clean work surface (ideally stainless steel, marble or unvarnished wood), cut off one-fifth of the dough and use a rolling pin to flatten it into a rectangle, about 3mm thick. (Keep the remaining dough ball covered with a damp tea-towel or wrapped in cling film.)

2. Using a knife, cut the flattened dough into 3-5mm strips.

3. Cut the strips of dough into roughly 10cm lengths.

4. Use the heels of your hands to roll each piece of dough into a thin pici strand, 20-30cm long and roughly 5mm diameter. (They should resemble grissini or thin breadsticks.)

5. Transfer the pici to a heavily floured tray or a large plate.

6. You can layer the pici on top of each other but make sure you heavily flour them as you layer, to prevent them sticking to each other.

You can cook the pici straight away or store them in the fridge wrapped in cling film for 1-2 days.

Fettuccine with ‘Nduja, Lemon and Mascarpone

I’ve always wanted to make a pasta dish using ’nduja (pronounced en-do-yar) where the chilli didn’t blow your head off! In this recipe, the addition of mascarpone mellows the spiciness of the sausage and creates a smooth and creamy sauce, lending richness. The strength of ’nduja varies, so you may need to use a bit more or less – taste it first and adjust accordingly.

The acidity in the lemon brings balance, harmony and zing to the dish. It rarely comes off the menu at Padella.

Ingredients

450g fresh fettuccine (see recipe in Padella cookbook – *see note at end of recipe for alternatives)

about 75g ’nduja 500g mascarpone

finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

4 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

sea salt

Parmesan, finely grated, to finish

Method

Put the ’nduja into a bowl and bring to room temperature, so it becomes malleable. Add the mascarpone and lemon zest and mix together until well combined to form a smoothish paste. (This can be stored in a sealed container in the fridge for up to 5 days.)

For the pasta, in a large cooking pot, bring 4-5 litres water to the boil and add a fistful of salt.

Put the ’nduja-mascarpone paste into a pan large enough to easily hold the cooked pasta. Add half a mug (about 120ml) of the seasoned pasta water and heat gently, stirring, to melt the paste and create a sauce. Take off the heat.

Loosen the pasta bundles so they won’t stick together as they cook. Drop the fettuccine into the boiling water and cook for about 1-1½ minutes. Drain the pasta as soon as it’s ready, keeping two mugs of pasta water.

Transfer the pasta to the ’nduja sauce and add half a mug (about 120ml) of pasta water, the lemon juice, chopped parsley and a pinch of salt.

Stir vigorously for at least 30 seconds until all the ’nduja is mixed around the pasta and you have a smooth, creamy sauce. If the sauce is too dry, add splashes of the reserved pasta water to loosen it as you stir: you want it to be loose and for the strands of pasta to slide freely over each other, and for a layer of sauce to cover the bottom of the pan. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and/or pepper if required.

Serve on hot plates with a creamy halo of sauce around the pasta. Finish with grated Parmesan.

Note The sauce sucks up the Parmesan quickly and can easily become dry. So, be sure to have that excess halo around the plated pasta: my visual reference for the sauce is a slow-moving lava field.

*Also works with: fresh pici; dried fettuccine, spaghetti, bucatini, linguine, penne, fusilli, farfalle

Ricotta and Pumpkin Gnudi with Crispy Pancetta, Sage and Parmesan

Gnudi are small balls of seasoned and flavoured ricotta that you roll in semolina flour and then poach. They’re incredibly delicate and the creamy flavour of the ricotta goes really well with the sweet pumpkin and salty pancetta. Delicious…

Gnudi

Ingredients

1.5kg Delica pumpkin (or butternut squash), to yield 450g cooked pumpkin

¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ tsp crushed dried chilli (or more if you like heat)

200g ricotta, strained of all liquid

1 medium egg yolk

50g Parmesan, finely grated, plus extra

to finish

25g plain flour 100g semolina, for

shaping and coating

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sauce

Ingredients

about 20ml extra virgin olive oil

120g unsmoked pancetta, sliced paper-thin

120g unsalted butter, cubed

12 sage leaves

Method

Preheat your oven to 190°C/180°C Fan/Gas 5.

Cut the pumpkin into even- sized wedges, about 7-8cm, discarding the seeds. Place in a roasting tin and season with the nutmeg, cinnamon, chilli and salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for about 1 hour until the pumpkin is soft all the way through. Allow to steam-dry and cool (to drive off all excess moisture).

Scoop the pumpkin flesh out of the skin with a spoon, weigh 450g and place in a large bowl. Add the ricotta, egg yolk, Parmesan and flour. Mix well to form a smooth paste. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and/or pepper.

Put half the semolina into a bowl. Roll the pumpkin and ricotta paste into little balls, about 4cm in diameter, to create the gnudi. Drop the gnudi balls into the bowl of semolina and turn to coat all over. Scatter the rest of the semolina in a container, or on a tray or plate and sit the gnudi on top. Store in the fridge for 24 hours before using (this gives the gnudi a better texture).

Heat a thin layer (about 20ml) of extra virgin olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the pancetta slices in batches until golden and crispy. Drain the pancetta on kitchen paper then chop into roughly 1cm pieces.

For the gnudi, in a large cooking pot, bring 4-5 litres water to the boil and add a fistful of salt. Turn down to a simmer.

Melt the butter in a saucepan large enough to easily hold the cooked gnudi. Add the sage leaves and fry over a low heat for 2-3 minutes until crispy and the butter has turned golden brown. Take off the heat and stir through the pancetta. Add small splashes of cold water and stir to stop the cooking.

At the same time, drop the gnudi into the pan of simmering water and cook for about 1½ minutes until they start floating to the surface. Using a large, slotted spoon, sieve or spider strainer, lift the gnudi out of the simmering water and add them to the pan with the sage and pancetta. Place over

a low heat and gently fold the gnudi through the sauce for a few moments until they are nicely coated (be careful not to mash them!). If the sauce is a little dry, add small splashes of the hot cooking water to loosen it. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and/or pepper if required.

Serve on hot plates or bowls and finish with grated Parmesan.

Last week, I embarked on my first adventure since I acquired my new ‘bionic’ knee over eight weeks ago.
I’ve been invited by Richard Corrigan, the wild and wonderful and deliciously unpredictable Irish chef, patron of several London restaurants including Bentley’s and Lindsey House to participate in ‘Homegrown’,
A super exciting weekend to celebrate the Autumn harvest with workshops, talks and sensational live music – How could I refuse…
There were master classes, foraging walks and many delicious seasonal meals hosted by Richard and his guest chefs. All held at Virginia Park Lodge, Richard’s Irish country house hotel and estate in County Cavan. Over 150 guests and many of his chef friends including Jeremy Lee, Mark Hix, Robin Gill, Angela Hartnett who love to work hard and play hard were over from London and beyond to participate and have fun. Throughout the weekend, a brilliant lineup of food related events, demos and talks ran concurrently. Long table dinners in the greenhouse under the vines, piggy feasts in the piggery, foraging for wild mushrooms, taco making with Lily Ramirez, kombucha with Daphne Shackleton, oysters galore and how about Mary Coughlan and Liam Ó Maolí for after dinner entertainment that well into the night and early morning – magical stuff. Be sure to check out next year’s Homegrown dates – www.virginiaparklodge.com
We called into Sheridan’s shop close by, what a selection of farmhouse cheese, artisan and specialist foods.  A real gem, hidden in the countryside at Virginia Road Station.
Then onto Belfast, at this time of the year, it can be difficult to find somewhere to stay or eat on Monday, Tuesday or even Wednesday nights. We enjoyed a delicious  dinner at James Street South and a breakfast bap at Established on Hill Street in the Cathedral District.
Lunch at Capparelli at the Mill, the new place everyone’s talking about in a beautifully restored 18 Century watermill in the heart of County Down, chef Carlos Capparelli worked with Ottolenghi in London for many years,
On up to the Antrim coast to find Ursa Minor, an artisan bakery in Ballymena. I’ve been wanting to taste their sourdough and viennoiserie for several years and it was certainly worth the journey.
Just a few miles ‘out the road’ we found Broughgammon farm where Charlie and Becky Cole make a range of artisanal charcuterie. We arrived as kids from the local school were learning firsthand how food is produced. The farm tour was in full swing, kids were enthusiastically digging potatoes to bring home for supper, picking pumpkins and decorating scarecrows. Other farms please copy…
Along the north Antrim coast, past the Giants Causeway, and the Mussenden Temple, over to Breac House just outside Dunfanaghy in County Donegal.  A bed and breakfast with memorable breakfasts owned by Niall Campbell and Cathrine Burke with only four bedrooms on the Horn Head Penninsula overlooking Killahoey Strand, Sheephaven Bay and Muckish Mountain. Booking well ahead is essential and so worthwhile.
I’d forgotten how utterly beautiful Donegal is, even under grey autumn skies. If you want to eat at the Olde Glen Bar in Glen Village, you’ll also need to book well ahead for the dining experience. As always, I was anxious to visit local farmers and food producers.  Joanne Butler at Ourganic Gardens showed us round their garden and fruit orchards and tunnels, where amongst many other activities, she teaches how to grow food to sustain a family of five throughout the year.
 We loved the beautiful hand cut local slate on the roof of the old buildings.
Next onto Mulroy Bay to hear the story of Donegal Sea Salt from John Slater. It’s fascinating how the flavour and texture of sea salt varies from one part of the country to another, a unique taste of Mulroy Bay.
Then on to check out The Blue Goat in Ramelton – an excellent speciality and local food shop, definitely worth making a detour for, say Hi, to  Shelley and to Des on the cheese counter.
Sadly the Bridge Bar was closed, everyone on holdiays – another time. We were also delighted to discover past Ballymaloe Cookery School student, Pauline Sugrue giving cooking classes in Wild Garlic School in the beautiful Old Bank House in Ramelton.
From there, a pilgrimage to Portnoo to meet charismatic gardener and natural soap maker,  Barry Quinn in his Market Garden, Barry’s got over 1 million avid Instagram followers of which I am one.
He’s planning to be down this way in May 2026 for the Ballymaloe Food Festival and he’ll bring his Duck Street Jam Band to play in the Grainstore.
Then a dash over to the Cove restaurant in Dunfanaghy for a delicious dinner where we found another one of our past students Siobhan Sweeney.
And finally on the way home we called into Rossnowlagh Farmers’ Market, where Ballymaloe Cookery School alumni,  Faye Dinsmore and her friends Lisa McCorley and Jaime Leigh Meade started a Farmers’ Market in the Friary Hall almost a year ago. A wonderful eclectic mix of locally grown produce and beautiful craft. I particularly loved the get-together area where the local community gather for weekly tea and chats.
How about that for a week of adventures? I need to get back home to put my knee up!!
Thank you everyone for the warm welcome to the many places we visited, often unannounced.

Capparelli at The Mill’s Kale Borani

Loved this delicious riff on borani at Capparelli at The Mill. Thank you to Carlos for sharing the recipe.

Serves 6

Ingredients

500g Greek yoghurt

125g kale

125g spinach

50ml olive oil (about 3 tbsp)

5 garlic cloves, minced

salt, to taste

Method

Strain the yoghurt.
Line a colander with a clean J-cloth or muslin and place it over a bowl. Add the yoghurt and let it strain for a few hours (or overnight) in the fridge to remove excess moisture.

Prepare the greens.
Blanch the kale and spinach in salted boiling water until wilted, then refresh in ice-cold water.

Drain thoroughly. Once cool, squeeze out as much water as possible from the greens.

Cook the greens.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the minced garlic and cook for about 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the drained greens and cook for a few minutes to remove excess moisture. Season lightly with salt and let cool completely.

Once cool, mix the greens into the strained yoghurt and adjust seasoning if needed. Set aside.

VADOUVAN BUTTER

Ingredients

60g unsalted butter

5g vadouvan spice mix

½ garlic clove, minced

zest and juice of ¼ lemon

5g flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

Method

Melt the butter over a medium heat until it starts to brown slightly and smell nutty.

Combine the vadouvan spice mix, garlic, lemon zest and juice, and parsley in a small metal bowl.

Pour the browned butter over the spice mixture, stir gently, and keep warm until serving.

PICKLED GOLDEN RAISINS

Ingredients

50g sugar

50g white wine vinegar

25g (25ml) water

¼ bay leaf

¼ star anise

250g golden raisins

Method

Combine the sugar, vinegar, water, bay leaf and star anise in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil until the sugar dissolves.

Pour the hot pickling liquid over the raisins. Allow to cool and infuse for at least an hour (overnight is best).

To Serve

Spread the kale borani mixture over a serving plate. Spoon over the warm vadouvan butter and scatter the pickled golden raisins on top. Serve immediately with toasted bread/ flatbread.

Mark Hix’s Steamed Marmalade and Kingston Black Pudding

I love a good old fashioned steamed pudding and there’s lots of different recipes floating around but I use this one all the time these days with various flavours from classic treacle to this delicious marmalade one. You don’t have to use Somerset Kingston black you could use whisky or any dregs you have in your cocktail cabinet.

Serves 4

Ingredients

80g melted butter, plus extra for greasing

200g marmalade, softened

2 medium eggs, beaten

100g fresh white breadcrumbs (including crusts)

80g light muscovado sugar

20g self-raising flour

½ tbsp bicarbonate of soda

50ml Kingston Black cider (Mark used Red Breast whiskey)

To Serve

softly whipped cream

Brush 4 individual pudding basins with some of the butter and spoon a tablespoon of marmalade into the base of each.

In a mixing machine or by hand, mix half the remaining marmalade with the butter then gradually add the eggs until well mixed then fold in the breadcrumbs, sugar, flour, bicarbonate of soda.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 (180°C fan) or use a steamer if you have one.

Spoon the mixture into the moulds, cover with foil and place in a pan with boiling water halfway up the moulds. Cover and cook in the oven or steamer for 45 minutes.

To serve, heat the rest of the marmalade with the Kingston black and spoon onto the puddings once turned out.

Serve with lots of softly whipped cream.

Lemon Posset with Gorse Flowers

This little gem was inspired by a gorse flower posset served in tiny glasses as a treat on the breakfast tray at Breac House – it can also be flavoured with lemon scented geranium or just lemon zest. Breac House also serves a little gorse jelly on top of the posset if you happen to have some in your cupboard.

Serves 8

Ingredients

400ml double cream

90g caster sugar

a fistful of gorse flowers

50ml lemon juice

6 x 75ml individual serving bowls or shot glasses

Garnish

gorse flowers

Method

Place the cream, sugar and gorse flowers in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Turn down the heat to low and cook very gently, stirring often, for five minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and squeeze in the lemon juice.  Strain out the gorse flowers and pour the posset into serving bowls of choice.  Cool, cover and refrigerate for 3-4 hours or overnight.

Garnish with a few gorse petals.